carmanpetite

2020年5月7日讀畢需時 6 分鐘

Copenhagen's downtown 哥本哈根市中心

丹麥是我們首個拜訪的北歐國家。首都哥本哈根曾經被選為最快樂、最宜居城市。這個一流的單車城市崇尚簡約風設計，在我的旅遊願望清單中排高席位。9月尾香港出發到冰島的旅程，選了在哥本哈根轉機，遊了分段的共 5日4夜。

Denmark is the first Nordic country we ever visited. The capital city Copenhagen is known for one of the happiest and most livable city. As a fans of Nordic style and Scandinavian Modern Design, we spent 5 days not continuously to visit the city when transit to Iceland in a September.

這裡約六成以上人口每天都以單車代步，現時市內擁有逾 390公里的單車徑，而且大部分都與馬路分隔，十分安全。

As the best cycling city among the world, over 60% citizens here are commute by bicycle daily. Riding on the road is safe because there are separate cycling lane in main districts.

政府在推動單車城市花了不少心思，市中心的智能交通燈偵測路面情況，計算汽車和單車數量調整綠燈時間。單車行車速度可保持在每小時 20公里的均速，讓路面交通變得更順暢。

The smart traffic lamp is capable to monitor and calculate the traffic of vehicle verse bicycle and adjust the length of the lights automatically. Cyclists are benefit from unimpeded road condition and keeping 20 miles per hour on average.

看見很多家長以載貨單車接送孩子，一個二個放在前面的小箱子，有些會把箱子拖在單車尾。

A lot of parents are carrying their child by bicycle too, children are sitting in a cart which connected to the bike.

初到北歐國度，對天氣的變幻莫測最意想不到。在熱鬧城市裡也會遇上極端天氣狀況；在 10分鐘內經歷了晴天、下雨和冰雹，這個循環同一天間斷地出現了三四遍，當地人好像都見慣不怪，騎車人仕早有準備，大部分穿著全套防水裝束。

The weather is quite unpredictable at Nordic countries. We experienced sunny, rainy and hailing within 10 minutes and this happened repeatedly 3-4 times in a day. The locals seems get use to it and most of the cyclists are in full gear waterproof dressing.

「Hygge」讀音 (ˈhʊɡ.ə) 快樂的丹麥生活模式，意思是一種舒適、幸福、溫暖、重視居家生活品質與家人親密感的生活狀態。強調「活在當下」和重視人與人之間的關係和連結。

「Hygge」is a Danish word for a quality of cosiness (feeling warm, comfortable, and safe) that comes from doing simple things such as lighting candles, baking, or spending time at home with your family.

這裡生活的人樣子甜美，街上迎頭碰面的陌生人也帶著微笑，和在中歐的感覺很不同。是優質環境富足生活讓人快樂嗎？

Most of the people we met on the streets are looking good, beautiful and a smile is always present on the faces.

很幸運每次旅途上也會遇到好人。我家大爺一向是找路能手，今次在哥本哈根搭火車鐵路給難到了。我們在Østerport，Nørreport 和 København H 這幾個車站轉呀轉，理解行車時間表、找月台和找對列車也花了點時間，最後還是找途人幫忙。在月台找著一位年輕母親，她帶著約6歲女兒和手推車中約2歲的弟弟，她們很熱心幫忙，小女孩教我們要認著車身顏色和上下行方向，很認真落力可愛到極。

We are always luckily with the help of some nice people on the journey. Its a bit hard for us to understand the schedule and get the correct train. Thanks for the help of a young mother and her lovely little daughter, we didn’t got lost at the stations.

另一件尷介事：搭地下鐵時人多擠迫，剛好有人下車騰出了空位我馬上座下，那卡其色長櫈設計簡約也很舒適。身邊有群年輕人在談天開懷大笑很快樂。過了數個站後，突然其中一位陽光少男有點尷介地對我說他要下車了，我平淡地回應了一句 OK，他再補充我一直座著是他的櫈。哈哈哈，車門快關上我趕快起身道歉。沒想到在地下鐵可以搬運傢俬！如果這情況發生在香港，相信一早已被罵得狗血淋頭。似乎是親身經歷了Hygge 的親切人際關係。

I think I experienced ‘Hygge’. I took an “empty seat” inside the metro’s compartment. The wooden long chair is clean line design with a light wheat colour and comfortable. A group of young collage boys nearby are chatting and laughing happily. After a few stops, one of the smart boy smiling and spoke to me and said he has to go, I don’t know why and I just simply reply OK. My most embarrassing moment was he told me that I’m sitting on his chair. OMG! I stood at once and apologize, they move out the chair at the last minutes before the door closed.

行累了找地方稍作休息，這裡看到對岸的哥本哈根歌劇院和連接東西岸的環狀單車道。

Surfing a place to rest and we walked to the Royal Danish Theatre. We saw The Royal Opera House at the opposite shore and also the inner bridge connect to the East Region.

不自覺地晃進了丹麥皇家劇場，一定是臭到劇場味。

Sitting inside the Royal Danish Theatre, here a very nice place to flex my legs.

市中心的特色觀光點不是太多，到近西部的著名教堂 (Grundtvigs Kirke) 看看。教堂建於1921-1940 年之間，由丹麥著名建築師P.V. Jensen-Klint 設計。西側面主塔貌似一根根音管，排起來就是一座巨大管風琴，「管風琴教堂」之名由此而來。

Grundtvigs Kirke is located in the west region of Copenhagen. It is a rare example of expressionist church architecture designed by Peder Vilhelm Jensen-Klint, built during 1920-1930. The most striking feature of the building is its west facade, the brick in pipe shape rippling towards the sky, look like a giant Pipe organ.

內部有二座真正的管風琴，西面的有 55個音栓，4個手鍵盤和 4052支音管，重 425千克，那 11米長的音管在北歐地區規模最大。另一座在北面的規模也不小有 14個音栓和 2個手鍵盤。

There are two real Pipe organs exist inside the church. The large western organ has 55 stops, 4 manuals and 4,052 pipes. The largest, weighing 425 kg, is at 11 m the longest organ pipe in Scandinavia. The smaller northern organ makes do with 14 stops and 2 manuals.

我們有幸碰巧有免費管風琴演奏，錄了一少段細味。

We are luckily enjoyed a section of free organ concert. I record a part (approx. 1 min) of the concert for memory.

Torvehallerne 是市中心最大規模的食檔乾濕貨市場，很受當地人和旅客歡迎。蔬菜生果市場連接著兩座計設簡潔的玻璃屋；一座主要賣乾貨，另一座是食檔，來找吃或只是逛逛也不錯。

Torvehallerne is a buzzing food hall suited in the city centre of Copenhagen. It’s two huge glass buildings next to each other joined by a fruit and veg market and some outside food stalls. It’s a perfect place to go to feed your gut bugs or just a browse around.

這裡間格光猛闊落，售賣優質食材：鮮漁檔、肉類、水果蔬菜、花、飲品、酒、麵包...等等，淋淋種種。

The food stalls are clean and tidy. There’s everything from fresh fish stands, local butcher stalls, seasonal vegetables and fruits, flowers, drinks, wine, bread...etc.

熟食檔乾淨排列整潔，提供西方輕食為主選擇也很多，堂食或外賣也可。我們試了Hallernes Smørrebrød的「開放式三文字」快快手解決了一頓午餐。

For ready-to-eat meal, you can take away or if you are lucky, find a spot inside. At lunch, we grab a handful open sandwich from Hallernes Smørrebrød and delicious.

這裡是市中心最旺的購物區，前行到達圓塔，買票登上塔頂可以俯瞰整個城市美景。

Walk along to the end of the street at the bustling shopping district, we arrived The Round Tower (Rundetaarn), get a ticket and see the stunning panoramic city view over the top of the tower.

圓柱形的結構，建築物料是簡潔的水泥石屎，沿石磚路住上行通住塔頂，其中一層設有展覽館。

The cylindrical tower's interior is simply chic and there is not much things inside except an exhibition hall. Follow the stone bricks to the top of the tower.