carmanpetite
- 2020年4月5日
- 已讀 8 分鐘

Iceland's South coast, 冰島南部

已更新：2020年4月22日

冰島公共交通不方便暢遊不駕車只好報當地團了。如果是夏天5, 6月直至9月中有循環巴士到主要景點還可以露營。冰島的自然地貌很多元化「冰、火、水、陸」包羅萬有。當地旅行團多不勝數競爭劇烈，領隊說華人參加團的比例很高。旅遊業是冰島三大收入來源之一，其餘是捕魚業和鋁冶煉。冰島土地面積大約是100,250平方米，人口約350,734，一半人口居住在首都或附近。

Iceland’s landscape is remote, if you don’t drive the best way to visit Iceland is join local tour. There are also some hop-on, hop-off bus tours available during summer time until mid of Sep. Iceland’s landscape is incredibly diverse: glacier, massive waterfalls, lava and stunning nature are all-in-one relatively small island. Tourism, aluminium smelting, and fishing are the pillars of the economy. Land area 100,250 sq km and the population is 350,734, half of the people are living at Reykjavik and surroundings.

我們參加了3次當地團，分別去了最美麗的南部、西部和熱門的黃金圈。選擇了16人以下小團避免人太多拍照時引起不方便。到南部的行程需要 2 日1 晚，領隊兼教練細心專業有耐性所以印象最深刻。

We joint 3 tours and went to South coast, West Peninsula and Golden Circle. We favour small group tour and the 2 days trip to the South coast are the most rememberable because the stunning landscape and we are leaded by a professional smart instructor.

行冰川 Sólheimajökull Glacier

所有冰川徒步都需要有專業教練指導與陪同才能進行，聽聞教練是需要考牌的。教練為每一個人檢查鞋的堅固度是否合適，量度腳長配好冰抓、冰斧；指導我們穿好安全索帶及講解安全守則登山技巧。

Glacier walk must be guided by a professional instructor, he checked everyone’s hiking boots, get ready all the size fitted equipments including crampon, ice axe, helmet and harness. He brief us the hiking techniques and safety guidelines before start.

天氣不好起步時開始下雨了，雨愈落愈大好像淋著花灑健行。

The weather is getting worse and start raining, we are walking in a shower.

踏在散散碎碎的火山泥石路不好走，步行了一小時多到達冰川起點。學習穿冰抓用冰斧，適應濕、凍和冰上步伐不隱都是人生的第一次。

The trail is not easy for me stepping on the loose rock and sand, it take around an hour reach the starting point of the glacier walk.

上行一個多小時終於登上冰川在一片平地停下。冰上黑色點點是幾百年火山爆發的灰石散落在閃亮冰藍白色中。教練說冰水很清甜可試飲，不過手黏滿泥沒有試看到是很通透的。在冰島天氣急然轉差是常態登冰川最好穿全身防水裝束，外套帽要預鬆和闊一點方便配帶頭盔，相機要綁貼身體。在冰上步行比正常行山路費力攀爬有時要手腳並用。淋著雨二個多小時，因為防水準備足夠身是乾爽的，在冰上感覺冷但又不是寒風刺骨。

We finally arrived the top of the glacier after an hour. The coloration of Sólheimajökull Glacier is some dusty black in between electric blue and sparkling white. I didn’t try the melting water although as told it is tasty. Full set waterproof clothes is a must have item, we walk in the rain for almost 2 hrs I felt cold but not freezing because I kept my body dry. if you wanna take camera, tighten it around your body and free your hands.

冰川正在以每年50米的速度融化，在過去一世紀縮小了2.2平方公里，這冰川好可能100年後完全消失了。在這裡看到湖的地方從前都是冰，呆站著看到地球暖化的證據。這機構拍攝了短片簡介溶冰情況。

Scientists at the Icelandic Meteorological Office claim that Sólheimajökull over the last century the glacier lost around 2.2 sq km of its front part and it has retreated 50m annually, Sólheimajökull may disappear by end of the century. The Melting glaciers are one of the most visible signs of climate change. Here a short footage study the retreat.

看瀑布 Waterfalls

整個冰島怖滿不同款式數之不盡的瀑布。天然美景是上天賜予的禮物。在南部到訪了幾個各有特色著名瀑布。Skógafoss 是南部最大的瀑布，瀑布前是平坦淺石灘遊人可以近距離欣賞。天氣晴朗的日子，瀑布前經常出現大彩虹呢。沿山路上200尺可以到達瀑布頂。

This is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters and a drop of 60 meters at the cliffs of the former coastline. The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. A rainbow always appear on a sunny day.

Gljúfrabúi (Canyon Dweller) 這瀑布有點隱蔽入口很擠只夠兩個人同時通過，而且必須經過地上濕滑的岩石進洞抬頭一看是美景。

This waterfall is hidden behind a considerable cave. A stream runs through a cleft in the cliff, and those who wish to approach the falls must do so by wading through these waters. With the open sunny sky above during sunset, it is one of Iceland’s most breathtaking gems, seemingly from a fantasy story.

Seljalandsfoss 這瀑布別有洞天，瀑布後面有一條通道空間可以容納15-20人，遊人可以從左至右或相反方向行一篇。水從60米高沖下來很有氣勢，我在這裡練功夫。

This waterfall that can be fully encircled with a drop of 60 metres and which is one of the country's most famous and visited falls. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern (can occupy 15-20 ppl), rocks and paths. I am where a practicing Kung Fu over there during sunset.

冰島天氣變幻莫測下了一整天雨，日落時份遇到太陽太興奮了。領隊說冰島已經整個月放晴就是我們到達一天開始下雨。

The weather in Iceland is totally unpredictable, luckily met sunset by the end of the itinerary. Our guide said Iceland is on sunny days for a whole month already and start raining on the date we arrive.

我很愛看雲加上日落時份的光線色彩變幻不喝也醉了。

I love cloudscape, the coloration during sunset is amazing.

在南部隨團安排宿舍住一晚，第二天再出發。旅行社經營自已的宿舍接待團友那晚住了數十人。我們分配了獨立睡房舒適寧靜，浴室食堂是共用空間。在這裡結識了同團分別來自美國和夏威夷的父女，他們不常見面可以相約去遊行很難得。教練領隊司機是同一人，在冰川上休息時和他交談他在中歐國家出生到這裡工作生活，他愛看中國歷史說了幾遍我外貌像一位歷史人物，哈哈笑死我。

We spent a night at Vik, the hostel is operated by the tour company. The place is cosy and warm, we checked in a private room with sharing washroom and common kitchen. Here is a place to make new friends, we enjoy chat with a father and daughter from US and Hawaii, we joint the same tour but didn’t have a chance to talk until dinner, we are facebook friend now. Our tour guide/instructor/driver is the same person, he came from central Europe and he is interested in Chinese history; he said I look like one of the historical person, haha are you kidding me?

宿舍在偏遠地方沒有光害，極光沒緣見了只好拍夜空。期待下次極光大爆發再來吧。那晚非常極之大風拍不到20分鐘馬上衝回宿舍了。

We understand nature is no guarantee and we didn’t see aurora this time in Iceland. Take this chance to picture the milky way since the hostel is remote with minor light pollution. It is extremely windy that night and we can’t stand longer than 20 minutes and rush back to the room.

遊冰湖 Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

登上海陸雙用船開始約30分鐘的航程，感覺好像慢慢進入一個大雪櫃。浮冰是從附近冰川(Breiðamerkurjökull)溶掉流下來漸漸形成了一個湖再跟海洋接軌。冰塊晶瑩剔透，冰島人以水之潔淨引以為傲，水可以製成出口產品。這天依然是雨不停，在湖中心行駛時很冷。

The amphibian boat trip take around 30 mins, we take the vessel on land and drive into the water, I felt like entering a refrigerator. The icebergs are crack from Breiðamerkurjökull glacier moving towards the river mouth and connected with the sea, the water in the lagoon is a mixture of freshwater and sea-water. The ice is over thousand years and it is clear and pure.

有些冰塊會沖上附近黑沙灘，可能當時還不算冷浮冰很快消溶，和網上看到一大塊一大座冰的規模相差很遠。冰像水晶般通透形狀不規則有些帶氣泡、雪花被海水沙石打磨拋光。若果陽光普照冰塊經折射一閃一閃像鑽石，Diamond Beach 這個名稱是因此得來吧。

Some icebergs wash up on the shore laying on the vivid black sand, on a sunny day they will sparkle like the diamonds. We’re a bit disappointed by the size of the “diamonds”, may be the temperature is not cool enough yet.

苔原 Eldhraun lava field

整日的行程差不多完了，回程Reykjavík途經一些特別地貌，領隊都會停下來順道讓我們休息。在冰島苔蘚品種超過600款，西南部看到的多數是Woolly fringe-moss。苔蘚普遍每年只能生長1厘米，像這一大片 (18立方公里) 生長在熔岩上的苔蘚，需要經過千年配合特定溫度和濕度才能生長成。冰島人很珍惜這些天賜的禮物，苔蘚是受保護植物旅人可以在規劃了的路徑觀賞絕可不採集和踐踏。

The tour is almost finished and on the way return to Reykjavik, we stopover a dramatic landscape. There are over 600 different type of moss, the most popular type is Woolly fringe-moss at south and west. It take thousands year to grow into such large scale (18 km³), moss can grow no more than 1 cm per year. The are is protected and never step on the green blanket.